What Did Women Wear in Ancient China?

Historical Development#

Pre - Qin Dynasty (Before 221 BC)#

• During this early period, clothing was relatively simple. Women typically wore a top - bottom combination. The top was a short jacket called a "yi," and the bottom was a long skirt called a "shang." These clothes were often made of silk, hemp, or ramie, with silk being a luxury item.
• Clothing was also decorated with simple patterns, and colors were relatively muted.

Qin and Han Dynasties (221 BC - 220 AD)#

• The Hanfu style began to take shape. Women's Hanfu consisted of a long robe that wrapped around the body, with wide sleeves. It was a symbol of elegance and modesty.
• As silk production became more advanced, the quality and variety of silk fabrics increased. Women of higher social status could afford more elaborate and colorful Hanfu, often decorated with embroidery.

Tang Dynasty (618 - 907 AD)#

• This was a period of great prosperity and cultural openness in China. Women's clothing became more diverse and revealing compared to previous dynasties.
• The "ruqun" style was popular, which included a short top and a long skirt. The tops were often low - cut, showing a bit of the collarbone. Women also wore shawls called "peidai" for added elegance.
• Bright colors, such as red, pink, and purple, were favored, and clothing was decorated with intricate patterns like flowers and birds.

Song Dynasty (960 - 1279 AD)#

• With the influence of Confucianism, women's clothing became more conservative again. The "aoqun" style, similar to the ruqun but with a more modest design, was common.
• Colors were more subdued, and simplicity was emphasized. The focus was on the quality of the fabric rather than flashy decorations.

Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644 AD)#

• Hanfu was revived and refined. Women's Ming - style Hanfu had a more structured look, with a front - closing robe and a high - collar design.
• Embroidered patterns became even more detailed, often featuring auspicious symbols like dragons, phoenixes, and clouds.

Qing Dynasty (1644 - 1911 AD)#

• Manchu influence led to the popularity of the "qipao" or "cheongsam" among women. The qipao was a one - piece dress that fit closely to the body, with a high collar and side slits.
• It was made of various materials, including silk, and was often decorated with beading and lace.

Key Institutions or Concepts#

Social Status#

• Clothing was a clear indicator of a woman's social standing. Noblewomen could afford the finest silk fabrics, elaborate embroidery, and precious jewelry, while common women wore simpler clothes made of cheaper materials like hemp.
• For example, during the Qing Dynasty, the qipao of a royal consort would be made of the most luxurious silk and decorated with real pearls and gemstones, while a peasant woman's qipao would be plain and practical.

Marital Status#

• In some periods, a woman's clothing would change after marriage. For instance, in the Han Dynasty, a newly married woman might wear a special type of headdress and clothing to signify her new status.

Cultural and Religious Beliefs#

• Confucianism, which emphasized modesty and propriety, influenced the design of women's clothing in many dynasties. The conservative styles of the Song and Ming Dynasties can be attributed to Confucian values.
• Buddhism also had an impact on clothing patterns, as some patterns were inspired by Buddhist art and symbolism.

Significant Figures or Events#

Empress Wu Zetian (Tang Dynasty)#

• As the only female emperor in Chinese history, Empress Wu Zetian had a significant influence on fashion. She promoted a more open and prosperous culture, which was reflected in the more diverse and flamboyant women's clothing of the Tang Dynasty.

The Manchu Conquest (Qing Dynasty)#

• The Manchu conquest led to a major change in women's clothing. The Manchu - style qipao replaced the traditional Hanfu as the dominant form of women's dress, marking a significant shift in Chinese fashion history.

Comparative Notes#

• In ancient Greece, women also wore flowing robes, similar to the Hanfu in some ways. However, Greek clothing was often made of linen and was more focused on draping, while Chinese Hanfu had a more structured design.
• In the Middle East, women's clothing was often more covered and had a strong religious influence. In contrast, during the Tang Dynasty in China, women's clothing was relatively more revealing, showing the different cultural attitudes towards women's bodies in these regions.

Legacy and Impact#

• The qipao has become an iconic symbol of Chinese fashion worldwide. It is still worn on special occasions, such as weddings and formal events, both in China and by Chinese communities abroad.
• The traditional patterns and designs of ancient Chinese women's clothing, such as embroidery and auspicious symbols, continue to inspire modern fashion designers, both in China and internationally.

Further Study#

• Readers interested in delving deeper into this topic could explore specific aspects such as the techniques of ancient Chinese embroidery, the history of silk production, or the cultural significance of different clothing patterns.
• Visiting museums with collections of ancient Chinese clothing or reading academic books on Chinese fashion history can also provide more in - depth knowledge.

References#

• Ebrey, Patricia Buckley. The Inner Quarters: Marriage and the Lives of Chinese Women in the Sung Period. University of California Press, 1993.
• Ropp, Paul S., ed. Heritage of China: Contemporary Perspectives on Chinese Civilization. University of California Press, 1990.